Volcanoes in Ecuador:

Select a link The big ten Other Mountains When to climb Sunburn & Altitude Guides & rescue Equipment Mountain refuges Rock & ice climbing courses Trekking

 

The highlands of Ecuador are paralleled with two main volcanic mountain ranges that span from the central areas and are around 400 Km in length providing one of the best natural attractions you will ever see.

The big ten as they are commonly referred to can actually be viewed over two days from Quito. Many of the volcanoes over 5000 m have glaciers on them that gleam brilliantly in the sun's reflection while sunset is also a good time to view them especially when the rays are behind the volcano often creating a mystical purple aura around them.

If you wish to climb one of the ten highest volcanoes you must spend at least a few days acclimatizing in Quito or equivalent of 2800 m first, for beginners only attempt the safer, lower inclines below 5000 m and avoid the more technically threatening volcanoes that can create unnecessary dangers unless you are a fully equipped and experienced mountaineer.

For those wishing to ascend by jeep Guagua Pichincha volcano (4794 m) often has operators that can arrange ascent by vehicle, this volcano overlooking Quito is only a 45 minute journey by Jeep and upon arrival at the refugio a short 15 minute walk leads you to the craters edge although dizziness and an unbalanced feeling can occur so do walk very slowly with your guide.

The big Ten

Cotopaxi

© Picture by Isabel de Wuth. Sales: 02-2282841.

At 5890 m elevation, Cotopaxi offers a spectacular view over the highlands and can be driven by jeep up to 4400 m making it an easy climb for most climbers accompanied by guides. The climb is one of the most popular in Ecuador and requires a night stay in an often overcrowded refugio dwelling where you will rise early morning and can be back in Quito by the afternoon (See also Parque Nacional Cotopaxi).

Tungurahua

At 5020 m Tungurahua is the 10th highest volcano in Ecuador but is currently not suitable for climbing as a result of dangerous fluctuating levels of activity. It is also one of the hardest to climb as the ascent from Baños is over 3300 m involving an early morning climb from the Refugio to the summit and even make it back the second day. Visits to vulcanologists can be made however if booked in advance through local Baños operators. For more details see Baños.

Chimborazo

At 6,300m Chimborazo is the highest volcano and mountain on the planet. If you take into account the equatorial bulge, Ecuador sits in the center of the bulge which in effect means the Equator lands enjoy higher levels of elevation than anywhere else on earth making it the closest area to other planets and has been nicknamed the summit where earth meets sky. From the refugio the ascent is a hard 1350 m climb and is not recommended to anyone other than experienced acclimatized climbers with professional equipment (See also Climbing & Trekking around Riobamba).

Carihuairazo

Carihuairazo lies adjacent to Chimborazo and reaches an elevation of 5,050 m.

Cayambe

Standing on a latitude of 0.00 this 5,800 m volcano is unsafe to climb due to intermittent cloud coverage resulting in near zero visibility from the jungle. There are also several crevasses and large gaps which combined with low visibility increases the risk of serious accidents (See also Cayambe Volcano).

Antisana

Antisana at 5,700 m is not technically challenging but as with Cayambe it has the aforementioned problem of an abundance of crevasses. A 3 hour drive from the country's capital, Quito will see you reach the base camp (See also Access to Antisana).

Iliniza Norte

At 5,120 m this volcano is the sole volcano within the big ten that is without glacier and is also not recommended for climbing or hiking due to the amount of loose rubble and rocks you will encounter at various levels of ascent, if you do decide to mount the volcano do take ropes and a guide unless you know how to secure your climb.

Iliniza Sur

Iliniza Sur lies adjacent Iliniza Norte at a level of 5,247 m and is most picturesque within the mountain scenery but is tough to climb and is only for the most professional of climbers (See also The Ilinizas).

El Altar

At 5300 m, El Altar is surrounded by 9 major peaks which are all difficult to ascend, they act as points for the inner crown and crater of the volcano which is engulfed within a breathtaking emerald colored lake (See more about El Altar).

Sangay

At an elevation of 5350 m, Sangay has been for many years the most active volcano on the earth. No climber is recommended to take this challenging volcano on mainly due to the constant spewing of rocks that catapult from the crater (See more about Sangay).

In concluding this section if you wish to climb peacefully enjoying greater levels of undisturbed silence in your ascents to the various volcanoes mentioned in the big ten then avoid Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Tungurahua and Iliniza Norte who's huts and refugios are often full and overcrowded as are the main routes.

Other Mountains

Outside the big ten there are several other mountains dotted around the major Quito, Otavalo and Cotopaxi areas which are all well worth visiting or climbing. Quito houses as previously mentioned Guagua Pichincha 4794 m and Rucu Pichincha at 4627 m although the later has been fraught with danger from robbers (See more about Rucu Pichincha).

Ecuador's 11th highest volcano is to be found around the Otavalo area and is called Cotacachi and peaks at 4940 m but as with Iliniza Norte is subject to loose rocks and is unstable to climb. Excellent climbs and safe routes may be also enjoyed from Imbabura, 4650 m as well as Fuya Fuya at 4270 m.

Cotopaxi national park is the home of Rumiñahui Norte, central and Sur (South) which stands at 4722 m and also Sincholagua at 4900 m although the former central Rumiñahui has the easier climb beginning at Limpiopungo, while the south volcano is entered from Machachi also within the park. Do take ropes and safety helmets for Rumiñahui Norte and Sincholagua (Cotopaxi national park).

For a great view of Cotopaxi and the Ilinizas it is well worth also visiting within the central valley Corazón at 4790, this is a simple climb up the mountain but is lengthy in duration so start your ascent early in the day.

South of Cayambe lies Sara Urcu 4680 m and Cerro Hermoso at 4580 m respectively. If you wish to get into heavy vegetation and heavy saturated areas then go ahead but do take compasses and maps as its easy to get lost in the maize of the greenery for a few days. The latter mountain which is part of the Llanganates range is also infamous within Inca history and is purported to be the hiding place where over 700 tons of gold in ransom assets was stashed after Atahualpa was murdered by the Spaniard.

Finally in the Oriente jungle there are also two further volcanoes which are named Sumaco at 3910 m and Reventador at 3560 m. You will need to be accompanied by guides with machetes or have a license as the vegetation is dense here leading to the volcanoes footings. The conditions are also exceptionally hot and humid so take plenty of water and proteins for the journey.

When to climb

It is best to climb these volcanoes during June to August for the Western cordillera as it is the dry season where as the Eastern cordillera is better for climbers during December to February as the other seasonal periods in between are much wetter.

The exceptions are those volcanoes located on the east side of the Eastern Cordillera such as Sangay, Sara Urcu, El Altar and Llanganates due to the regular frequency of storms all year round.

As explained previously most ascents to summits should take place between 6 and 7am in the day to allow ample time to journey back down before early afternoon. Because as the day progresses the sun's powerful rays water down the snow peaks into sludge making the climb not only harder but with more pitfalls as well as possible avalanches as rocks give way from melted ice triggered by the human foot. In addition visibility declines rapidly as many clouds develop after midday. Leaving early mornings is the best option for viewing the peaks unless you are a night climber.

Sunburn & Altitude

Sunburn is a serious consequence through cancer producing Ultra violet light due to a combination of being near the equator and the high altitudes so wear high SPF weather proof sun blocks at all times. A triple attack on the skin also occurs with the sun's reflection that beams off the snow which also affects the nostrils, the complete ear and beneath the chin so be warned and apply to these areas in addition to the obvious.

The other main danger is snowblindness that over 5000 m can be contracted within 15 minutes irregardless of cloud cover so take great care to protect yourself with glasses that protect to 100 UV light or over or better still wear ski goggles that even protect against unwanted dusts from others above you that irritates the eyes. If you contract snowblindness it is possible you'll not even notice till the following day but the after effect is acidic in nature and very unpleasant on the eyes resulting in the retina being partly burnt out which then gradually weakens the sight as the years progress. Often the person with snowblindness cannot even see the next day and so if the climber is on his own he will suffer great difficulties descending the mountain so again beware.

Guides & rescue

Before venturing on major climbs throughout Ecuador it is sensible advice to register with your local Embassy who are usually the first contacted by local parties along with prearranged insurance policies as they can often help with air ambulances and onward flights through your family data and next of kin that you will leave with them.

Don't expect with the local guides association ASEGUIM (Asociación Ecuatoriana de Guías de Montaña) even if you use their guides to provide you with helicopter lift service or call the local army or air-force for aid. These guides mount very swift and high level rescue operations and work within the French national mountain training school protocol which also requires two-way radios.

The cost of rescue operations is around $2.000.00 which you can claim back on your insurance policy if it is in your terms and conditions in addition to personal injury, check your policy before signing to ensure you're covered (See also Trekking).

Equipment

If you don't arrive fully equipped from your own country don't worry because there are plenty of camping and climbing stores around Quito and Guayaquil. Outdoor shops that can amply facilitate all you need. As a general guide equipment imported form the U.S.A tends to be more cost effective than European Equipment so shop around for the best deal, in addition some shops rent their equipment out on a regular basis but as with bicycles it's sensible to check your gear is up to standard first before taking.

Mountain refuges

Don't expect more than basic levels of service in refuges (refugios) such as electricity for lights, cooking and water which cost around $10 per night. The standards however in general due to recent improvements are internationally accepted.

Rock & ice climbing courses

As well as the possibility of arranged course with ASEGUIM, the main areas offering practical courses are located at Cayambe, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.

Note: You may find additional detailed information about volcanoes in Ecuador at http://www.ecuadorciencia.com.

Volcanoes in Ecuador:

Select a link The big ten Other Mountains When to climb Sunburn & Altitude Guides & rescue Equipment Mountain refuges Rock & ice climbing courses Trekking

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